Lucca and Montecarlo – sightseeing & wine tours
Lucca – a luxury “time machine” to the Middle Ages
The city of Lucca (Lacca) cannot be called one of the main capitals of world tourism, because there are no “wonders of the world” like the famous Tower in neighboring Pisa (the mass tourist, unfortunately, is not interested in anything else in Pisa). At the same time, there are always a lot of guests and tourists in Lucca, and a significant part of them have already been here and are returning to this city not for the first time – people who are in Italy for the first time rarely come to Lucca. What attracts them here?
At first glance, Lucca does not stand out from its famous neighbors – in the Middle Ages, Lucca was in the shadow of Pisa, then a great world metropolis. Since the late Middle Ages, the place of the already defeated Pisa and the richly fading Siena was taken by Florence – the “new Athens”, which opened the Renaissance and gave mankind a new world in which we still live. Rather, only a curiosity is connected with the great Renaissance in the history of Lucca – the great pioneer of the Renaissance, Filippo Brunelleschi, the builder of the dome of the Florentine cathedral, during Florence’s campaign against Lucca, proposed blocking the course of the Serchio River and directing it to the besieged city. Luck changed Brunelleschi – instead of Lucca, the river rushed into the camp of the Florentines, who were forced to scatter in disorder. I have an answer – Lucca is “cozy” … Lucca is a pleasant bourgeois-fashionable city, an atmosphere in the good sense of philistine comfort reigns here. This comfort is not the boring comfort of modern “one-story” Europe or America, but the special charm of the Italian bourgeoisie, and not modern, but ancient – centuries old. Lucca was and remains a rich city, but the main local wealth is history, and this history is not dead, which is in abundance in other cities of Tuscany and Italy, but alive. The history here is not mummified, as in Pisa, it has not turned into a souvenir-tourist conveyor, as in Florence or Venice.
History in Lucca, although it stopped many centuries ago, continues to assert itself to this day. Measured locals do not change their habit of dressing well and going out in the evening for an aperitif and a walk, and ladies go to performances in the small but famous thanks to the local composer Giacomo Puccini, the Giglio Theater, in furs and diamonds. The historical center of Lucca, surrounded by powerful bastions of the 16th-17th centuries, perfectly preserved the medieval urban environment, which has not changed much over the past 400-500 years. Medieval churches, houses and towers coexist here with the palaces of merchants and bankers of the later Renaissance and Baroque eras.
It is in Lucca that you feel like you are in a “time machine” more than in any Tuscan city, because of all the brilliant medieval Tuscan city-republics, only the Republic of Lucca survived until the 19th century. It lost its independence only in 1805, when it was united with Piombino into the new “Principality of Lucca and Piombino” and presented by Napoleon Bonaparte to his sister Eliza. This episode should be familiar to the Russian reader, because with the phrase of Anna Pavlovna Scherer, the maid of honor of Empress Maria Feodorovna: “Well, prince, Genoa and Lucca have become no more than the estates of the Bonaparte family” begins “War and Peace” L.N. . Tolstoy. The history of the city, at the same time, did not begin in the Middle Ages, but much earlier – almost 2300 years ago. At the end of the III century BC. on the site of a small village of Ligures that already existed here, the Roman legionnaires founded their military camp, which later turned into a real city. The name Lucca itself apparently comes from the Gallo-Ligurian word “bow”, denoting a swampy area – there really were severe floods caused by the floods of the Auzer River (now Serchio). In 180 BC, Lucca became a Roman colony and its citizens acquired the rights of Roman citizenship.
Until now, the city retains some features of ancient Lucca, first of all, the geometry of city streets, which basically coincides with the ancient Roman regular system of equal rectangular blocks. The main city square at the Church of the Archangel Michael is still located on the site of the ancient forum, but the most important evidence that has come down to us from ancient Rome remains the ancient amphitheater, whose arena has turned into a city square of an unusual oval shape. In the era of the Dark Ages that came to Italy and Europe after the death of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century, Lucca, like the whole of Tuscany, repeatedly passed from hand to hand. In the era of the Dark Ages that came to Italy and Europe after the death of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century, Lucca, like all of Tuscany, repeatedly passed from hand to hand of the all-time barbarian conquerors. In 476, the city was captured by the Ostrogoths, a century later the Byzantines were driven out of Italy by the “Eastern Romans”, but the Goths were soon replaced by even more severe barbarians – the Lombards, who turned Lucca into one of the three capitals of their kingdom.
Against the background of the general savagery and degradation of the dark period of the Dark Ages, Lucca suffered less and began to revive faster than other Tuscan cities. This was also due to its geographical position – instead of the abandoned ancient “highway” Via Aurelia, which led from Rome north to Gaul along the Tyrrhenian and Ligurian seas, a new main trans-Italian trade and pilgrimage route Via Francigena appeared, which moved inland and passed in that including through Lucca. In the 8th century, the Lombard kingdom was conquered by the Franks, and their king and the newly minted Emperor Charlemagne made Lucca the capital of the county, and then of the entire Tuscan March. In the 12th century, after the death of its last owner, Countess Matilda of Canossa, Lucca, like many important cities of Tuscany, became an independent commune – a republic that quickly became rich due to active international trade, which, however, was still in the shadow of its powerful and hostile neighbor – Pisa. , located at the mouth of the Arno, just 20 kilometers.
The golden age of Lucca began in the era of the Trecento (Italian name for the 14th century), at the same time as the ever-increasing decline of Pisa, which received a “mortal wound” at the legendary battle of Meloria in 1284. Lucca reached its highest power during the dictatorship of the famous Castruccio Castracani, the leader of the Tuscan Ghibellines, a great warrior and talented politician who subjugated Pisa, defeated the troops of Guelph Florence and was sung two centuries later by the famous political theorist of the Renaissance, Niccolò Macchiavelli. After the ridiculous death of Castracani, Lucca fell into anarchy for a long time, but despite many attempts by the Florentines to conquer it, it managed to remain an independent republic. Even in the 16th century, when the communal era in the history of Italy remained in the distant past and the whole of Tuscany was united into a single monarchy by the great dukes of the Medici, Lucca managed to avoid the fate of other small republics. The small state turned into an intra-Tuscan “offshore”, a banking capital and a “resort and gambling house” fashionable among the European aristocracy, remaining until the invasion of Napoleon’s armies in Italy.
Montecarlo – the wine citadel of the province of Lucca
Half an hour from Lucca, the capital of the medieval republic, independent until the beginning of the 19th century, Montecarlo is located, one of the most beautiful “borgos” – small towns in Tuscany. The name Montecarlo comes from the Latin “Mons Karoli – Charles Mountain”, this fortified city really owes its name to its founder, Emperor Charles IV of Bohemia-Luxembourg, who defended Lucca from being captured by the Florentines in the 14th century. It was Charles who in 1333 built this outpost near the rich trading Lucca on the top of the Cerrullo hill. Advantageous strategic position – from the towers of Montecarlo opens a view of the entire surrounding plain from the Apennine mountains to the Tyrrhenian Sea, allowed to control an important section of the strategic “Frankish Road” (Via Francigena), which led from France and Northern Europe to Rome. It must be said that a fortified urban settlement called Vivinaya on the Cerrullo hill existed on the site of Montecarlo since the 10th century AD. At the beginning of the XIV century, during the reign of the Lucca tyrant Castruccio Castracani, a successful military leader who dreamed of uniting the whole of Tuscany, who two centuries later was praised by the Florentine Niccolò Machiavelli, Vivinaya Castle was rebuilt and fortified. However, already in 1331 – three years after the death of Castracani – Vivinaya was destroyed by the Florentines, who were about to conquer neighboring Lucca. Charles of Bohemia (then still Luxembourg), the future Czech king and Holy Roman Emperor, came to the aid of the Lucchese allies. Charles not only protected Lucca from conquest by Florence, but also restored the main fortress on the eastern border of the Republic. Instead of the devastated Vivinaya for its destitute inhabitants on Mount Cerrullo, the best architects of Charles in 1333 erected a new citadel and a borgo – settlement. In 1437, however, Montecarlo finally fell into the hands of Florence, under whose rule it remained until the unification of Italy in the middle of the 19th century. Seven centuries later, Montecarlo has retained its main pride – the citadel of the XIV century, which is surrounded by “borgo”, now inhabited by only four thousand inhabitants, but boasting dozens of ancient buildings and churches (including the Cathedral of St. Andrew), but also a real (albeit small) old opera house.
Wine Citadel. In the last few centuries, tiny Montecarlo owes its main glory, however, not at all to military exploits, much more eka, was called Vivinaya (Vivinaia), i.e. Via Vinaya – Wine Road. The local wine was first mentioned in a legal document from 846, which states that it is made by “pressing the grapes three times according to the rules.” Over the following centuries, the main source of income for the local population was precisely the production of red wine “clear and pure like cinnabar”, as well as white Trebbiano wine, which in the 15th-16th centuries became a highly valued and sold wine in Florence, recognized by the Grand Dukes of Tuscany and even Roman papa
In the 19th-20th centuries, Montecarlo wines owed their fame to the local winemaker Giulio Magnani, the owner of the Fattoria Marchi Magnani (now Mazzini) winery, who in the second half of the 19th century began working in Montecarlo with French varieties from Bordeaux – Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Roussanne, from the Rhone Valley – Roussanne and Syrah, Burgundy Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. He achieved the greatest success with blends of the traditional local Trebbiano with French white varieties – by the beginning of the 20th century, white wines from Montecarlo, which gained fame and recognition under the nickname “Chablis from Montecarlo”, did not disappear from the tables of the Italian aristocracy and even the Italian royal family of Savoy. It is known that in 1930, at the wedding of Prince Umberto of Savoy (later the last king of Italy) and Maria José of Belgium, wines from Montecarlo were served.
The wine controlled zone DOC Montecarlo was established in 1969 – one of the first in Italy. Its production regulations currently govern the production of white, red and dessert wines. The main wine of Montecarlo – white wine Montecarlo Bianco DOC should be produced in the form of a complex blend: its base (40-60%) is Trebbiano Toscano (Trebbiano Toscano), the remaining 40-60% should be Semillon, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc and Roussanne are at least three of these varieties, with a total share of 40-70%. In addition, the Montecarlo DOC regulation allows the production of varietal white wines from Vermentino and Sauvignon Blanc (share in wine – at least 85%), indicating the corresponding variety on the label. Montecarlo Rosso DOC red wine must be based on Sangiovese (50-75%), to which it is allowed to add Canaiolo Nero, Merlot and Syrah in any proportions with a total share of 15-40%, as well as Cileggiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nera, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc with a total share of 10-30%. In addition, the Montecarlo DOC regulation allows the production of three red varietal wines: from Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (total share – from 85%), as well as a traditional Tuscan dessert wine from raisined grapes: white Vin Santo and red Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice.
Where to stay in Lucca
The historical five-star spa-hotel Bagni di Pisa – The Leading Hotels of the World 5 * is located in the town of San Giuliano Terme, 10 minutes by car or train from the historical center of Lucca – booking.com
The five-star hotel Villa Casanova 5 * is located in a secluded Tuscan country mansion of the 18th century, a 15-minute drive from Lucca among the greenery of the hills in a large pine grove – booking.com
The new four-star hotel Palazzo Dipinto 4 * with spacious rooms is located in the heart of the historical center of Lucca – booking.com
The four-star hotel San Luca Palace 4 * renovated in 2008, is located in the center of Lucca in a palace built in 1540 – booking.com
The four-star hotel Palazzo Alexander 4 * is located in the center of Lucca near Porta San Donato. The hotel rooms have wooden floors and marble bathrooms – booking.com
The four-star hotel Villa la Principessa 4 * with a swimming pool and a restaurant is located in the building of the Ducal country palace, surrounded by a park, 4 km from the center of Lucca – booking.com
Built in 1735 in Rococo style, villa Fabbrica Di San Martino is a rustic villa-winery located 6 km from the center of Lucca. It offers an outdoor pool and elegant apartments and suites. The Fabbrica di San Martino winery produces excellent classic wines – booking.com