Montalcino-Montepulciano-Val d’Orcia
Montalcino-Pienza-Montepulciano, Brunello and Vino Nobile
Towns, great wines and baths of Val d’Orcia
The most beautiful part of Tuscany
The southeastern part of Tuscany between the cities of Montalcino and Montepulciano is considered one of the most beautiful corners in all of Italy. The local landscapes are known all over the world thanks to the grandiose panoramas of the famous Val d’Orcia (valley of the Orcia River) against the backdrop of the extinct volcano Amiata. Here, a chain of hills with fields, vineyards and olive groves stretches to the distant horizon, creating a “picture” of Tuscany, which we know from the masterpieces of Renaissance painting or simply from tourist postcards. The peaks of the highest hills are crowned here by ancient cities – the most famous of these are Montepulciano, Pienza and Montalcino, around which the great Brunello and Nobile wines and the best cheese in Tuscany are produced.
Montepulciano – High Renaissance and Vino Nobile
In Southeast Tuscany, not far from Lake Trasimeno and the border with Umbria, on a high hill stands the ancient city of Montepulciano, legend has it that it was founded by the Etruscan king Porsena in the 6th century B.C. After the fall of the Roman Empire and the decline of the Dark Ages, the city republic of Montepulciano flourished here in the Middle Ages thanks to its location on the main trade and pilgrimage route of Via Francigena, halfway between Florence and Rome. In the 14th century, despite its geographical position south of Siena, the commune of Montepulciano became part of the Republic of Florence, which immediately appreciated the strategic importance of the city. Unlike most small cities in Tuscany, the era in which Montepulciano “lives” is not the Middle Ages. The spirit of the early sixteenth century, when Renaissance culture reached the peak of its development, reigns here.
It was then that the great Florentine architect Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, who arrived in Montepulciano in 1511 to build the new city walls, worked here and built many of the city palaces of the local aristocracy: the Palazzo Contucci, the Palazzo Ricci, the Palazzo Taruggi, etc. His main masterpiece in Montepulciano is the “ideal temple” of the High Renaissance – the Church of the Madonna di San Biaggio, the construction of which chronologically coincides with the construction of the Temple of St Peter in Rome by his nephew Giuliano da Sangallo.
Vino Nobile – A noble wine from Montepulciano
A unique feature of Montepulciano among the other cities of Tuscany is that beneath every Renaissance aristocratic “palazzo” is a cellar winery, in some cases a real catacomb. The underground wineries of Montepulciano produce the famous Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (noble wine from Montepulciano), one of the main classic wines of Tuscany, which brought the city no less fame than the magnificent temples and “palazzo” of the 16th century. Glory to the local wine came a long time ago, back in the 17th century Francesco Redi in his poem “Bacchus in Tuscany” glorified it as “manna from Montepulciano” and “king of all wines”. The term “Vino Nobile” for red wine from Montepulciano first appeared in the register of the oldest winery in Montepulciano of the Contucci family in the late 18th century. The basis of Nobile wine is a local clone of the main Tuscan variety Sangiovese, called Prugnolo Gentile in the local dialect. The DOC Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine zone was established in 1960, and in 1980 it was upgraded to DOCG.
The Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine zone is entirely within the borders of the commune of Montepulciano in the province of Siena. According to the production regulations of the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, red wines are produced with a content of at least 70% Sangiovese of the local biotype Prugnolo Gentile and other red varieties permitted in Tuscany (up to 30%), including whites (but not more than 5%, except for Malvasia grapes Bianca and other aromatic varieties). Sangiovese is most often supplemented by local autochthonous varieties: Canaiolo, Mammolo and Colorino.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG has an ageing of at least two years, of which at least an year the wine spends in wooden barrels. Vino Nobile of the Riserva category ages at least three years, of which at least one and a half in wooden barrels and 6 months in bottles. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano matures faster than its great neighbour Brunello di Montalcino, but its longstanding “reserve” wine from Contucci and other historical producers (e.g. Cerraia, Castelli del Grevepesa, Fassati, Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano, etc.) proves that it can withstand a long aging period of 40 years or more. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has an intense ruby red colour that turns into a pomegranate when aged. The wine has an intense sometimes ethereal flavour with the characteristic fruity notes of cherry, violet flowers and spices; the taste of the wine is structured, balanced and elegant with pronounced tannins that guarantee the wine’s good life expectancy.
Montalcino and the great Brunello di Montalcino wine
The tiny town of Montalcino with only five thousand inhabitants, is now one of Tuscany’s major tourist capitals, with around one million tourists coming here every year and two hundred thousand staying for more than a day. Like many towns in Tuscany, Montalcino boasts an ancient history, witnessed by many old buildings, among which the picturesque 14th century citadel stands out. The city is believed to have been founded in the 10th century, and two centuries later it became an independent commune, but it achieved relative prosperity in the 14th century after the conquest of Montalcino by Siena. At this time, the extensive possessions of the counts of Aldobrandeschi in the southern part of the Tuscan coast became part of the Siena Republic, with Montalcino in a strategic position on the road to the sea, which the Sienese could only subdue by armed means. It is even more curious that two centuries later, in 1555, it was Montalcino that became the last stronghold of the Republic of Siena for as long as four years after the Florentines had conquered Siena itself, their main enemy for centuries. In 1559, after the subjugation of Florence, which had direct access to the sea at Pisa-Livorno, the “sea route” through Montalcino lost all meaning and the town itself became a deaf periphery, which remained until the end of the twentieth century.
Brunello di Montalcino
The current world fame of Montalcino was not brought by the monuments of the local antiquity, but by the famous Brunello di Montalcino wine. Local wine production has a centuries-long tradition, but the Montalcino winemakers’ resounding international fame is relatively recent. Today Brunello di Montalcino is one of the “icons” of Italian winemaking and the main wine of the first three classic red continental wines of Tuscany (along with Chianti Classico and Nobile di Montepulciano). It is Brunello, to a greater extent than other wines, that can be called the perfect symbol of Tuscan traditional winemaking. Thanks to its outstanding qualities, the best Brunello are at the top of the world wine rankings, Brunello is uncompromisingly produced from 100% of the main local Sangiovese variety, cultivated in Tuscany since Etruscan times, Brunello is designed to last for decades and is considered one of the most long-living wines in Europe.
The official birth year of Brunello wine is considered 1888, when Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, a nobleman from Montalcino, founded the winery of Tenuta il Greppo, breeded the local Sangiovese clone and set the rules to produce Brunello wine, which seemed unusually harsh. The wine should have been made from a 100% local variety of the Pan-Toscan variety Sangiovese called Sangiovese Grosso because of its larger berry size and thicker skin. Ferruccio died in 1917, leaving to his son Tancredi the winery and the vineyards, which had been completely renovated after the invasion of phylloxera, now invulnerable to the parasite insect. Tancredi Biondi Santi culminated the classic style of Brunello, the best embodiment of which was the 1955 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, included in the top rankings “12 wines of the 20th century” by the Wine Spectator (together with Chȃteau Margaux 1900, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1937, Petrus 1961, etc.).
Tancredi also perfectly mastered the technology of refilling bottles of old vintages, thus preserving the reserve Biondi Santi wines until 1888. The last true “patriarch” of Brunello was Franco Biondi Santi, who managed the winery until his death in 2013. In December 2016, the Tenuta il Greppo Biondi Santi winery was sold by Franco Biondi Santi’s children to the French Epi Group. The Biondi Santi family will continue to produce wine on their “own” farm, but other people will already own it. In the mid-twentieth century, when Biondi Santi continued to produce Brunello on a small scale, the neighbour wineries followed suit with the establishment in 1967 of the “Consortio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino”, which initially included only 25 producers. Not long before that, in 1960, the Brunello di Montlacino DOC wine zone was established in the commune of Montalcino, which became the first italian appellation with Controlled Designation of Origin (DOC – Denominazione di Origine Controllata). Brunello, however, even at that time remained a regional wine, outside the region known only to connoisseurs. The “Miracle of Brunello” happened a decade and a half later, when in 1980 it became the first wine in Italy to receive the new DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin) appellation.
Brunello owes much of his transformation into a “world wine” to the owners of the Castello Banfi farm, the American-Italian family Mariani-May, who acquired the Poggio alle Mura castle and a huge piece of land in Montalcino in 1978, and turned them into a giant, by Tuscan standards, wine “latifundia “. The main merit of Mariani-May was the “conquest” of America, where Brunello quickly gained fame as the most prestigious Tuscan wine and began to sell millions of bottles. The successful example of Castello Banfi has completely transformed the wine-growing region, and the number of producers in Brunello di Montalcino has increased to 240. The rapid development of the wine region has inevitably led to different views on Brunello’s style – the main debate is about the type of “wood” used for a very long period of Brunello’s aging (total aging is at least 5 years from the date of the harvest, of which at least 2 years in oak barrels). As early as the end of the 19th century, aging was traditionally performed in large “botti” barrels with a capacity of several thousand litres, made primarily from Balkan “Slavonic” oak. Wine develops very slowly in them, and the influence of oak on wine characteristics is also limited.
With the arrival of the “Americans” Mariani May and the founding of Banfi in Montalcino came the fashion for a new format of “wood”, namely French “barricks”, with a capacity of only 225 litres, made with thin unlacquered planks. Barricks have a much more noticeable effect on the character of wine, and the very development of wine during aging in them becomes much more “hurried”. The “new style” has found many adherents in Montalcino, but even more wineries have rejected it, especially the oldest producers of this wine led by Biondi Santi. The production regulations of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG are equally tolerant of both the “old” and the “new” style – they do not limit the age or size of the wooden containers used to age the wine. According to the regulations, a single variety of Sangiovese can be used for this wine (its different varieties, not just the local Sangiovese Grosso as originally). Before being put on sale, Brunello di Montalcino is subjected to a long period of aging – at least 5 years from the date of harvest (6 years for Brunello Riserva), of which at least 2 years in oak barrels and at least 4 months in bottle (6 months for Brunello Riserva).
Pienza – the ideal Renaissance city
The history of Pienza’s founding is unusual for the local area. Unlike most of its neighbouring towns, which date back to the Etruscan period and flourished in the Middle Ages, Pienza was built in just a few years in the middle of the 15th century on the whim of the enlightened humanist Pope Pius II (Pio II), born Eneo Silvio Piccolomini. The very name of the city of Pienza comes from the Pope’s name: Pio – Pienza. The choice of the place for the new city, named in its own honor, was because the future pope himself was born in 1405 in a village called Corsignano, then located on the site of Pienza, where the noble family of the Counts Piccolomini was exiled from his native Siena. Fifty-four years later, in 1459, Eneo Silvio Piccolomini, recently elected Pope under the name of Pius II, travelled from Rome to Mantua and settled in his “homeland” in Corsignano. Having found a complete decline and desolation here, he decided to turn poor Corsignano into a new “ideal” city, worthy of the pope and his court. The city was intended to embody the latest and most progressive ideas of the architects of the then flourishing Renaissance – it should have been erected in a revived “ancient Roman” manner and had nothing to do with the “barbarian” Gothic that reigned then throughout Europe. The work was entrusted to Florentine Bernardo Rossellino, a pupil of one of the “Renaissance patriarchs” Leon-Battista Alberti, who already worked at the papal court where he was entrusted with the reconstruction of the ancient St Peter’s Basilica.
According to the common opinion of architectural historians, Pienza became the first example of the implementation of urban planning ideas of the Renaissance humanist architects according to a single and broad plan. All the town of Pienza is concentrated around the central square, now named after Pius II, which houses the majestic Cathedral of the Assumption and the Piccolomini Palace. Both buildings have obvious features of great Alberti’s influence: the facade of the Cathedral repeats the three-part division of the “classic” Malatesta Temple in Rimini (even though its internal structure is entirely Gothic), and the huge palace of Pope Piccolomini is a “replica” of the Florentine Ruccellai Palace (but certainly also of the Medici Riccardi Palace). Beautiful Pienza, the first Renaissance “perfect city” in Italy, could have been built on a larger scale, but the simultaneous death of the Pope and the architect in 1464, just five years after the founding of the city, stopped further work. The death of Pope Pius II not only interrupted the construction of the “ideal city”, but also prevented the main project of the pontiff – Pope Piccolomini died of a plague in August 1464 in the port of Ancona, just as the fleet was gathering there for a new Crusade to Constantinople to free it from the Ottoman Turks. If it had not been for this tragic accident, perhaps Pope Pius II could have changed the course of all European history.
Pecorino di Pienza is the main cheese of Tuscany. Pienza is famous not only for its great architectural history, but it is also considered the “cheese capital” of Tuscany. Curiously, there is no wine in Pienza, despite the fact this town is located between the great wine production areas of Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. But it is in Pienza that the most valuable type of pecorino, the region’s main cheese, is made. Pecorino, i.e. “sheep cheese” (from the word pecora – sheep), is hardly the only “milk product” in traditional Tuscan cuisine, due to the lack of cow’s milk and its products. Pecorino cheese can be very different – fresh or aged (from 4 to 24 months), sweet or spicy, aged in laurel leaves, in ashes, coated with olive oil, “stuffed” with truffles or paprika, etc.
Val d’Orcia Thermal Baths
Famous for its landscapes and great wines, the Val d’Orcia (valley of the Orcia River) boasts yet another natural treasure. Thanks to its proximity to the dormant Amiata volcano, the hills along the Orcia river are home to many geothermal springs, often turned into baths since antiquity. Thermal
Thermal town of Bagno-Vignoni.
Bagno Vignoni
The most famous baths in the natural park of Val d’Orcia have historically been the thermae of the medieval town of Bagno Vignoni. As evidenced by numerous archaeological finds, the baths have existed here since the Etruscans and Romans, and they were no less important in the Middle Ages, when the main trade and pilgrimage route in Italy, Via Francigena, passed through Bagno Vignoni. A distinctive feature of Bagno Vignoni is that the place of the main town square is occupied by a huge thermal pool, built back in the 15th century. The pool, which is filled with water from an aquifer at the site of a volcanic rift, is surrounded by the ancient Church of John the Baptist, the travel residence of Pius II, the portico, and the chapel of St Catherine of Siena.
It was in the “pool” of Bagno Vignoni that Andrei Tarkovsky shot the final episode of his “Nostalgia” in the winter of 1982, where the Russian writer Gorchakov, tries to walk with a lighted candle from one side of the St. Catherine’s pool to the other. Twice the candle goes out, only the third time Gorchakov puts the burning candle on a stone but dies of a heart attack. Unfortunately, in the last twenty years, the thermal pool in Bagno Vignoni has not been used for bathing, which was banned under the pretext of preserving its historical value. This, however, does not mean that there is nowhere else to swim here – a picturesque system of canals and small waterfalls lead to the Orcia River through the newly opened Mill Park (Parco dei Mulini), through which the sulphurous water at the foot of the hill gathers in a large thermal pool open for swimming. It is believed that the pool with its slightly radioactive sulphuric waters of volcanic origin was already used for therapeutic purposes in the Etruscan and Roman times.
Bagni di San Filippo Baths
The natural baths of Bagni San Filippo have a very different appearance – a complex formed by streams, waterfalls, and small warm ponds lost in the middle of lush green forest. Along the forest path, you can reach the main local attraction – the White Whale Cascade (Сascata della Balena Bianca), a huge block of limestone formed by deposits of hyperthermal waters. The snow-white colour of the rock contrasts sharply with the dark greenery of the surrounding forest. Hot healing waters flow down from White Whale and collect in natural pools and hollows. The mud from them has a strong therapeutic effect on the skin of the face and body.
Chianciano Terme
The Chianciano Terme Baths, located in the southeast of the province of Siena in the homonymous town of Chianciano Terme, has a reputation for being family-run. The resorts of Chianciano are surrounded by parks, where a variety of entertainment and cultural programs for adults and children are offered. The water and mud resorts of Fucoli and Acqua Santa effectively combat arthritis and rheumatic diseases. There are many accommodation options in the city that allow you to combine hydrotherapy with a comfortable holiday near the natural and cultural riches of the Val d’Orcia Valley. Where to stay in the Montepulciano-Montalcino-Val d’Orcia area: hotels, golf, and spa hotels.
Where to stay in the Montepulciano-Montalcino-Val d’Orcia area: hotels, golf and spa resorts
The five star hotel Castello di Velona – The Leading Hotels of the World 5* is housed in a restored 10th century castle on a high hill overlooking the legendary Val d’Orcia Valley, 8 km from Montalcino next to the famous Poggio di Sotto winery. Rooms are furnished with luxurious furniture and embroidered fabrics. Each room has air conditioning, a wood-burning fireplace, and a marble bathroom. There is a restaurant and a large spa centre with sauna, Turkish bath, indoor and outdoor pools – booking.com
The five-star hotel Castello Banfi – Il Borgo Relais & Chateaux 5* is in a medieval castle on a hilltop 10 km from Montalcino in the middle of the Castello Banfi vineyards – the largest producer of the main classic wine of Tuscany Brunello di Montalcino. It offers elegant rooms, an outdoor pool, a gym, a wine cellar and a luxury restaurant – booking.com
The five-star hotel Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco 5* is located 12 km from Montalcino in a manor house restored by the famous Ferragamo family. It offers comfortable rooms with parquet floors and views of the Tuscan hills, a restaurant, fitness centre, sauna and Turkish bath, Brunello tastings at its own winery. The Castiglion del Bosco 18-hole golf course is considered a golf course with the best scenery in the world – booking.com
The five-star Adler Spa Resort Thermae 5* is located in the thermal town of Bagno Vignoni on the bank of the Orcia River. It offers large indoor and outdoor pools, a gym with panoramic views of the Tuscan hills. The hotel’s spa complex includes a sauna, herbal caldarium and a Turkish bath. The restaurant serves the best Tuscan dishes and wines – booking.com
The four-star Hotel Villa del Capitano Art & Relais 4* is in an 18th century villa in the town of San Quirico halfway between Pienza and Montalcino. The hotel offers a panoramic view of the Val d’Orcia valley. Rooms are equipped with a mini-bar, safe and bathrooms with Erbario Toscano toiletries. Some rooms have a terrace with, while others have a private garden – booking.com
The 4-star Hotel Relais Il Chiostro di Pienza 4* is located in a former 15th century Franciscan monastery in the historic centre of Pienza, across the street from Pope Pius II Palace. It features a well-kept garden, a terrace with grandiose views of the Orcia Valley and an outdoor pool. There is a high cuisine restaurant on site – booking.com
The 4-star Hotel Corsignano 4* is in the centre of Pienza and offers a panoramic view of the Val d’Orcia. It has a terrace with a hot tub and a restaurant serving traditional Tuscan cuisine – booking.com
The four-star hotel Relais Osteria Dell’Orcia 4* is located 1 km from Bagno Vignoni in a 16th century manor house. It has an outdoor pool and elegant air-conditioned rooms with silk brocade walls. The hotel rooms overlook Pienza and Bagno Vignoni – booking.com
The three-star spa-hotel Albergo Le Terme 3* is in the centre of Bagno Vignoni, next to an ancient thermal pool. In the hotel garden there is a wellness centre with a hot tub, Roman bath, therapeutic pools and a thermal pool. The hotel restaurant serves Tuscan cuisine – booking.com